Scotland in early Feb 2019

I should point out that Guy and Liz have way more experience than me, as will others actually going on the meet, so you should defo listen to them. My answer last night was probably a touch OTT :slight_smile:

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Very much agree with Guy on this. Think you could go, but I suggest worth checking now what others would want to do, and whether you could find a partner for some easier grade I/II/winter walking stuff. The other thing you could consider is paying for a day or twoā€™s instruction from somebody. Or go skiing!

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Yeah grab a guide for couple of days if you have the cash!

Have fun all. My first experience of winter was following @dabarlow up a IV ā€¦ Not recommending that approach necessarily :wink: x

Hey Danny,

Iā€™m probably in a similar boat to you - I guess we could go and do some walking and easy grade Iā€™s/IIā€™s (like v easy in good conditions - eg Aladdins culoir or something in Coire Anā€™t Schneachda.) and maybe split the cost of a guide from Aviemore or something on one of the days if you like?

What dya reckon? :slight_smile: drop me a message directly with your mobile if you wanna chat :smiley:

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If you decide to get a BMGuide or MIC let me know and I can check if anyone i know is free - make sure they are AMI registered anyway - or I can check if anyone is training and needs volunteer pupils to practice on for free ā€¦
:slight_smile:
Liz

@DannyTompkins. The majority of the group are at a similar level. There are, as @katy_c pointed out lots of easy options and mtn walks. There is also a fairly short crag which I believe will provide top rope options and the opportunity to get used to the style and techniques for winter climbing. I have buckets of experience to a pretty high level and have instructed in a club environment in the past. I will also be bringing some spare technical ice tools.
Lets all just agree to go and enjoy ourselves.
I believe the weather for the start of the week is pretty good and that will help.

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@DannyTompkins I also agree you should come up. My plan was also to have a nice easy time without sh***ing myself up too much.
My number for whatsapp 07969161682

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Thanks Lizzie, thatā€™s super kind of you - will definitely let you know :slight_smile:

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Doesnā€™t sound like you John?

Fab really looking forward to it. Thanks all. See you on Sunday.
Danny

Hope you all have a great time, wish could have made it up but workā€¦ :frowning:

just as an aside, and as someone who doesnā€™t climb technically hard in winter, if you havenā€™t been out in proper winter before it is definitely worth reading up on avalanches, and indeed reading a general book on winter mountaineering techniques and maybe watching some videos on basic skills. Itā€™s nowhere near as good as actually doing it, or even getting a guide but if you have read and understood (hopefully) a simple guide to snow and ice techniques youā€™ll have some idea of what is going on, and hopefully pick it up quicker on the hill, when speed can matter.

In winter climbing there is not really any such thing as ā€˜craggingā€™ and you really do need a good solid basis of skills and judgement, ropework, finding and assessing protection, snow, turf and ice conditions, weather, route choice, the whole lot. A background of lots of summer scrambling is in my view a better start than cranking hard, at least to give you that foundation. Look well to each stepā€¦

There are loads of really good, satisfying ā€˜easyā€™ days out in the Highlands, although be aware that the best of the easiest (and Dorsal Arete which is sh*t) will often be mobbed by winter skills courses. And most grade I gullies, if not loaded, can be a rather monotonous slog, although 300m of grade I is a good way of honing your technique! And grade two gullies, whilst maybe more interesting, are often steep and without any protection opportunities, one slip and you go a long way, I vividly remember cutting through my first cornice!

Something like the E ridge of CDM folowed by CMD arete and up to the summit of Ben Nevis is a stonking day out if you have clear skies, or Ring of Steall. Be aware however that many ā€˜easyā€™ routes, even ungraded walks, can be avalanche terrain traps and claim lives many years.

Have a fantastic time up there

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All great points Chiz

Iā€™d just chip in to add that any time you spend getting used to stopping slips and arresting slides is time very well spent. It might not seem as much fun as climbing, but being able to stop a simple stumble or a slide may well save your lifeā€¦
ā€¦I wouldnā€™t be able to type this if I hadnā€™t practised stopping myself with, and crucially without, tools over the years. It wasnā€™t the best day out on the hill Iā€™ve ever had, but I lived to tell the tale and certainly wouldnā€™t be here without such practise!
Anyway, have yourselves a fantastic time. Iā€™m slowly working my way back in to winter mountaineering and may well try and join a trip next year if there is one.
Richard

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Great points Chiz and Richard. Thanks. Sorry you canā€™t make it up this time.

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@guyarnold :wink:

Is everyone def leaving friday? Not booked travel back yet so just checking nobody is up for an extra day or two? Accommodation seems scarce though.

Depending on weather, body and options for quality climbing, I am leaving that door open. Plan is to doss in the forest or whereever as i will also be doing this weekend.

Iā€™ll be heading back on Friday I think
D

Yeah Richard, but you did do the fastest ever 600m new routeā€¦backwards :wink:

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Indeed - just glad I missed out the final waterfall pitch!!

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