Scotland in early Feb 2019

Aha you’d think that. It’s started to creak so I’m not so sure anymore :smiley: if there are four of us with packs etc we might be better in an estate, my boot is pretty big, but won’t be as large. I can probably get everyone in if we pack super conservatively/have stuff in the back seats too. Let me know what you want to do and if I need to speak to my insurers to get you on - might be best if we take this offline when we get that far…

No snowchains from me unfortunately.

To Daves point, I have ‘The Cairngorms’ by the SMC which has a load of routes in for gullies/climbs etc, and a book of the munros with routes but ltd maps.

Also, not sure if you guys have seen it, but theres a ‘Be Avalanche Aware’ (BAA) App for Scotland which breaks down the regions and has daily updates and recommended approaches etc - I have it but it might be good for everyone else too :slight_smile:

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I have 2 sets of snow chains although I haven’t checked inside the packages and also haven’t checked that they fit my current car. Either way, assuming they are full sets, i’ll put them both in my car - might work for a get out of jail up the mountain, if only for a short distance. I also have a second (less good) snow shovel for a similar purpose.

For a lot of the climbing, I won’t need my map, in which case I can share

Update: i have 1.5 sets of chains and its going to be touch n go whether they fit

Dave

Hi all. Sorry to have been a bit quiet so far!
I’m coming by public transport but we have enough cars to get us to and from the crag right? I will of course contribute to mileage for this.
For ropes I have 2x 60m halves.
I’ll bring another cairngorms map

On the topic of ropes, I only have a 60m single. Is it worth bringing, or will we have plenty of halves?

Also, ice screws. I don’t have any but think I might get one or two

I have a reasonable supply of Screws & snargs though you don’t normally expect to use them in the main Corries, but absolutely for Lurches and for the big ice-fall at Stag rocks. Possibly useful if you venture to Creag Meaghaidh (quite close to the digs) and again useful for various routes on the Ben if you venture that far

When are you travelling @johnw1 ? and is it a bus trip along the A9 ?

We’ll have 2 cars. I’m putting the seats back into mine to give flexibility

Thanks for the gear tips @Kiwidave. I will be arriving from aviemore Sunday evening. Haven’t checked train/bus times yet.

@johnw1. Ive sent a message (on here). I may be able to pick you up
Dave

It looks like I have several guidebooks with at least selected climbs, which overlap other guidebook I have

Hi all,
Does anyone have a spare helmet that I could borrow? Apologies. In haven’t done enough winter routes to buy my own one yet. I have a normal sized head…

Thanks

Danny

Hey Danny,

I have a spare helmet you can borrow. Nothing fancy, it’s a fairly new decathlon specimen.

For travel from London, do you guys already have a plan, in terms of where to meet and what time to leave, roughly?

Hello. I’ve been in touch with Katy about car stuff. If you and Danny post your phone numbers I’ll add you to a WhatsApp group to discuss this further.

Hi all,
I’m on 07853917077.

I just wanted to double check with you all that it was all okay for me to come along. As I said before, I have never ice climbed or trad climbed before but I have sport climbed (up to around 6b+ at the castle) and can belay. Re winter conditions I’ve done a couple of days winter course in Cairngorms and did an easy ridge so have some experience, but am definitely a learner. I am really keen to learn more but wanted to check that it was okay for me to come along looking to learn rather than being ready to go with complex routes or climbs. As I’ve not met many people l from NLMC, Im not sure of the culture on this sort of thing or with the people that are coming on this trip. Happy to do some rock climbing trips first and come along next year if you think that’s better for this specific trip. Don’t want to hold you back.

Danny

Sure, my phone number is 07474946349

@DannyTompkins - hi Danny, it was good to meet you tonight briefly at The Castle (we chatted in the auto belay area earlier on).

As I’m not going on this trip, what I’m about to say can of course be instantly over-ridden by anybody who actually is, and you should feel free to ignore me accordingly. However…

Scottish winter is really very serious stuff, where the danger level is high, and experience and knowledge of what to do in a bad situation could be the difference between literally living and dying. I think the standard recommendation would be that one does not get into winter climbing until one has a pretty solid background in trad (for guidance, the winter leading course I’m doing at Glenmore Lodge in three week’s time has as a pre-requisite that participants have good experience of winter walking and are comfortably leading trad multi pitch routes above Severe).

I know that as somebody who is not myself experienced in Scottish Winter, I wouldn’t want to go out with anybody who wasn’t much more experienced than me, who also knew they could rely on me if things go wrong, and with whom I had a high level of trust because we’d climbed together extensively before. Pertinent things here involve: being able to abseil out of a variety of anchors; rescuing your partner if they have a major fall; being able to navigate to safety in white-out conditions, etc. If you haven’t done any trad climbing, are you confident that you could e.g. build an anchor at an improvised location with poor natural protection, under pressure when your partner’s life is hanging in the balance because they fell off the route they were leading, and smashed themselves on a ledge after a 10 meter fall? (This literally happened to my friend Felicity last year; she had to have her partner evacuated by helicopter after securing him.)

My guess is, probably not. So my advice - which, again, can be over-ridden by anyone actually going on this trip - is that this is probably not the best meet for you to start off on. (Not least as you’ll be asking somebody else to effectively guide you, for free, which means that they are responsible for your life, but you can’t really be responsible for theirs, because you lack the necessary knowledge and skills to do that for them.)

I say this not to put you off needlessly, but because I think it’s important we are frank and honest about the very real risks involved. I don’t want people being too bloody English to say what they are really thinking, and next thing we hear there has been some terrible accident and people are dead.

You are, of course, absolutely more than welcome to come out trad climbing with us when the weather warms up. Loads of people in the club started out as trad novices but with a sport background (like me!), and there’s plenty of meets in the calendar and informal trips being organised throughout the year. Once you’ve got more of a trad background, and with a decent chunk of experience operating on real rock in more challenging conditions, then I think Scottish Winter is a next step you can take. But given what you’ve said above, my instinct is to warn you off at this stage.

Then again, I’m going to do my first winter climbing in three weeks’ time, so as I say, I’m no authority. But you asked, and this seemed the most honest and helpful answer.

Hi Paul (and others),
Thanks for this, and thanks for chipping in. Its great to have a really honest answer like this and much better than a polite alternative, and I think it sounds like you’re right. I don’t want to put anyone else in a position where they aren’t comfortable.
If members of the thread that are going can drop me a line on here, or on a separate email, to chat about what you are looking to do up in Scotland then that would be great. I’m on danny.jk.tompkins@gmail.com. I’m v happy to sink the accom costs and just sit this winter out until I have some trads climbs under my belt, hopefully with this club. I don’t want to ask anyone to guide me / train me for free!

Best,

Danny

Danny if you don’t go in the end, welcome to join me in n Wales this weekend for a winter climbing taster day (you will need boots, crampons and axes - I can lend a walking axe but ideally climbing ones would be better) as I don’t mind sharing some skills and was planning to get out Saturday. Looks cold and very windy! So avalanche risk allowing. Early season (going to Scotland the following weekend and hopefully getting a mid week day too this week) so doesn’t need to be too hard and may be lacking ice. (Although arranged some indoor plastic ticking Sunday as doing an informal comp so only be one day - welcome to join for that too). Navigation is a really major one in winter as well as the gear, and what ifs/ avy awareness . Check me out with @dabarlow for competence, as especially in winter never go with unknowns :wink: (I’m not a qualified instructor so own risk rules apply!)
Liz 07812140527

Hi Danny,

For what it’s worth I think you can absolutely go on this trip subject to a few caveats. You seem to know how to use ice axe and crampons so as long as whoever you are climbing with is happy to do all the leading then you’ll be fine on easy I/IIs. Also a good opportunity to see how people build anchors/place gear.

However, this is all assuming that people are happy to take you out climbing if it means dropping their grade and it may mean a couple of rest/walking days if they want to go and do other things (which I’m sure would be fine). We are a kind spirited club (I think) and people are generally very happy to help out beginners - I’m sure they were helped in a similar way at some point in their own careers!

As you say - drop people a line and see what their ambitions are and I’m sure you’ll work something out. Be flexible/realistic and you’ll get something done I’m sure.

Besides, Scotland is an amazing place in winter even if you don’t end up climbing every day.

Guy

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