Break hand right up against the device. Naughty naughty!
Sorry to hear that Toby - hope he gets well soon!
Cheers
Matt
Hi Everyone - looking forward to the weekend. I have just confirmed final details with the campsite. A few house keeping things:
- please bring cash to pay for camping on arrival. This will help immensely, given the late arrival time!
- please, please, please try to keep the noise down as much as possible on arrival (campsite are a little concerned that nearly 30 people are rocking up at midnight!!!)
- weāre in the middle of the non-electric field - sounds magnetic! I have no additional details than this ā¦
- always ā¦ wear sunscreen
See you later/tomorrow
Cheers
Matt
Not sure how well the dead rope is being heldā¦
https://m.petzl.com/sfc/servlet.shepherd/version/download/068w0000005uwlgAAA
Approved technique is brake rope in the dead hand and thumb down on the cam, there is a sort of lip on the top/side of it to lever against while you use the other hand to give rope through the device.
The old school and totally uncool method (which I think she is doing) is thumb on top, fingers underneath to hold the cam down - letting go of the brake rope in the process- and yarding out slack.
Ta Matt. Just so we get it right, how much cash please? I notice itās a camping and caravan site, which means things like flowers in the bogs and spare toilet roll covers. very nice!
They do have funny rules about where you can put your tent within the designated pitch, but hopefully weāve got an arrangement and have been chucked in the group field.
M
Maybe sheās an E9 crusher and is relying on her phenomenal pinkie grip strength?
Canāt help thinking Petzl could do a better job on these!
Hi Max - Ā£10 per night per person - donāt forget your pocket money!
Weāre in the ānon-electricā field, which is the first one you come to. We are all in a group, camp anywhere you like in the middle of this field!
Cheers
Matt
any problems - my number is 07879 475833
The really uncool (but, letās not forget, still likely to hold >99.9% of the time) way to do it is to let go of the dead rope completely. Grigri in one hand, thumb on cam, other hand pulls rope out.
Having the dead rope pinned between hand and device I thought was always one of the approved methods. Whisper it, but thatās what Iāve done and Iām sure itās shown in some instruction books.
Iāve even had someone fall off when Iāve had the cam open to pay out slack, which provided an ideal demonstration of how my pinch strength isnāt enough to hold a grigri closed against the force of a falling climber.
Intriguing. I wouldnāt have thought moving the index finger alone would change much given the middle and ring fingers are still around the device. Does it say where the index finger should be?
Should be under the rounded lip that the rope is running over, with the rope running through your other fingers.
Thanks, that last pic illustrates it nicely, from a side on view, its the knuckle of the index finger butting up against the lip but nothing underneath the device. Of course, itās awkward to operate this way because of the twist in the dead rope adds friction; and real world applicationā¦ as you say Andy. I feel safer being belayed by a gri-gri under either method than trusting 100% to human attention.
Main point being, Petzl have put an photo in their how to belay safely document that appears to be in direct contravention to their latest best-practice guidance on using a gri-gri.
7.30-8ish from Angel. I still need to source a tentā¦
Yes, the disconnect does seem odd.
Iāve always thought the ādead ropeā focus with grigri safety should be targeted far more at when people are hanging on the rope and moving about - I can far more easily imagine an unexpected drop when pulling on/off the rope to check holds and therefore have weight coming on/off the grigri gently (same would apply sitting back on a toprope) than I can imagine failure to catch in a decent length dynamic fall.
@Tim: Iām bringing a 4-man tent (because itās the only one I currently own) so Iād be happy to swap car space for tent space.
āYour hand should never let go of the brake side of the rope.ā
@khalidqasrawi - this is incorrect; itās ok to let go of the break rope when your partner is on the ground, or else you will never be able to go home.
The above litany of answers prove that Grigris are rubbish. Get a Click-up. Be part of the future.
More seriously: I forgot to bring my Dartmoor guidebook. So if anyone wants to go bouldering on Dartmoor, should probably bring oneā¦
Or a shiny new Revo, maybe 