Yorkshire meet 9th-10th 2018


#42

Zigzag direct (VS). I managed to fall off the HS direct version the day before. I also fell off a VS later that day. But on the plus side, I now know how to hand jam.


#43

Hand jams are the dogs!


#44

My hands are a shambles. Excellent weekend all round :grin:


#45

Super weekend! Thank you all :slight_smile:
Few more pics


#46

@Catrin @dabarlow Are half ropes mandatory for Almscliffe? I might be headed up there in August, wondering whether to invest. I have 30m and 70m single ropes currently.


#47

I personally would use half ropes, the easier climbs you can get away with single ropes but the cracks tend to weave. Unless you double up your long rope which is something I’ve done in the past given the short nature of the routes there


#48

I hadn’t thought of that. Does that method still allow bringing up 2 seconds?


#49

Yup. But you as the leader need to tie in to the halfway point. So, you probably don’t want to fall. The routes are all short enough that your 70m, doubled up, will be fine.

Half ropes are cool though. What else is money for except buying climbing “sneeds”, which according to @khalidqasrawi is “stuff you don’t need”?


#50

Yes and no. Not simultaneously unless it’s a very short route in which case I’d question the half ropes unless it weaves alot,


#51

I would never ever suggest tying in on the middle point! If it’s resorting to that then use 2 singles, it’s heavier but you’re not on multipath or a long walk in for any grit routes.


#52

It’s a “thneed” not “sneed” and it’s according to Dr. Suess anyway in The Lorax.



#53

What an awesome trip - thank you all!


#54

I thought the leader tying into the middle was a fairly accepted way to do this: http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/8ClimbingInAThree.htm

but its interesting that in that article he uses a (strange) bowline or fishermans. Why not just a figure 8, other than the knot being big?


#55

Sorry. I couldn’t understand your cockney dialect. It’s very hard for my northern ears to understand you lot sometimes.


#56

I guess the seconds don’t need to climb simultaneously on grit as they’re pretty short routes. But now i’m interested to know why you wouldn’t tie in to the middle of a long single rope…


#57

Not obvious to me why the leader tieing into the middle of the rope is any less good than tying onto two ends. What’s the perceived problem? When I lead on a doubled over rope I tie in with a standard bowline. Be interested to know what the concerns are?


#58

Personally I think it’s bad practice as it requires you to use a crab for tying in. Not something I’d be doing if leading, all pressure on a fall is placed on belay loop, which I think is fine for belaying as that’s what it’s designed to do, but lead falls increase fall force


#59

Thank you for organising @Catrin. Especially the posh dinner!


#60

A lot of the routes can simply be climbed with a single and a short one at that. @HollyP has 2 single ropes so just use one or other of them as if they are singles. The walk in is short so take both.

You can choose between using 1 rope and the 2nd tying into the middle or 2 ropes like they are halves. There’s not a big need for 2nd and 3rd to climb at the same time at Almscliff.

Leader tying into the middle looks unnecessary although I don’t see a problem with it. There’s no need for a karabiner. @Binit-Shah, I would tie into the middle rather, using a bow-line or a re-threaded overhand with a stopper. The link above has a nice idea which involves bringing the bight over the person to make a very nice bowline knot but that is more than needed here.

Why use 2 halves:-

  • better rope path - same with 2 singles
  • clipping alternate strands means you don’t risk a longer fall whilst clipping gear - same with 2 singles
  • reduces the load on the protection - the protection is mostly excellent cams so gear is very solid anyway

Some of the routes have no requirement for ropes but make sure to bring a dress.


#61

But why would you use a Krab to tie in? As I said whenever I do it, I tie in with a standard bowline.