Swanage / Portland day hit Sunday 2nd Oct

I’m planning a day trip to Swanage / Portland for one of the days this weekend. Dare I say it, I’m thinking of sport climbing. Sunday weather looks best so that is plan A at the moment. Plan B could be somewhere else or Saturday. Quite a few people sounded interested last night whilst we were chatting in the pub. Now is the to declare if you’re a) maybe b) probably or c) certainly.

I’ll be leaving from Angel (North One). @Vilius, @mortim91 you interested in Sunday from mine?

Both plans sound great and suit me.
Lock me in for option c) certainly, please :slight_smile:

Let me know where exactly you end up - Im local and will be out and about somewhere although unsure quite where as yet…

As will I … possibly at the same place as Andy!


Hi Khalid,

Sounds like a great plan, sign me up!

Sunday would be ideal for me.


I am chuffed you thought to copy me after our chat earlier this week :-p

Myself and 3 others will be climbing in Hedbury quarry on Sunday. Feel free to come and say hi if you’re nearby :slight_smile:

Hi! I’m also keen if there’s space for me :slight_smile:

I’m afraid I don’t drive though…so no worries if that is an issue.

Kate (I was at Mile End on Wed night)

We will certainly drop in if we climb near there.
You should probably warm up then give Very Ordinary Route (F1) a go.

@ajmorris228, it looks like a rainy day on Saturday. Will there just be massive amounts of seepage on Sunday? Is there a preferred crag after rain?


Portland doesn’t have a big issue with seepage. Some of the flowstone may be a bit damp but overall the walls dry quickly. Crags either in the sun or breeze will probably generally be okay. There isn’t much breeze and it’s from the north so if you play the breeze card the end round reptile smile will catch most of what there is at the expense of the least sunshine. Cuttings OTOH will be very sunny but with still air.

I would avoid anything at sea level at Wallsend or Coastguard partly because with the shorter days they don’t get the sun required to remove sea grease.

As far as the swanage quarries go they do take a bit more water on the black-stained sections at hedbury and dancing ledge. The cave at winspit seeps but is quite hard anyway and on the left of the quarryman’s wall freemarblers and eventually after more sustained bad weather the rest of the roof by halsewell will wet out.

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I get really detailed weather forecasts through work and is looking dry at portland midday on tomorrow so should be fine - as andy says it will dry fast too.

Ansteys is the driest place tomorrow if anyone fancies a hard sport climbing day trip :wink: (it is quite far for a day from London though! But steep so stays dry!)



I knew you were the man to ask! Sounds like it’s Blacknor vs Cuttings vs Winspit although I want a go at Buoys will be Buoys on Battleship Back Cliff.

Easy to shift across the island to follow the sun. You know how to get to battleship post rockfall?

Nope, tell me, tell me, is it tricky?

Hi Khal - I’m interested if there is room in the car.


We can squeeze in another. Give me a call. I’ll PM my number.

Looking forward to a fun day. What address are meeting at Khalid?

@Liz_Caspar, I’m planning to leave from Angel at around 7am. Can pick up en route. Where are you staying tonight? Could pick up at Kings Cross or somewhere west London on Piccadilly line.

I can meet you at Angel station at 7am if that works.
Would you like me to bring rope and/or quick draws?

@khalidqasrawi Is it ok if I meet you at kings cross station around 7:15?

What gear are you bringing? I assume it’s just sports climbing we are doing?