Do you like your climbing exciting, by the seaside, and often alarmingly steep for the grade? Swanage!
The Climbing
Lovely limestone sea cliff trad, mostly tidal and with abseil approaches. Loads of great VS/HVS routes if you’re gym fit and like steep juggy climbing, but there’s other stuff there as well. And also some sport.
(the author pictured on the left, just before she dropped one of her shoes down a hole)
Just to note - while there are routes in the lower grades they can often still be quite serious, with loose rock (especially at the top outs) and tidal belay ledges. So maybe not ideal for a new leader unless you’re used to dealing with adventurous conditions - the sport climbing, while still featuring the typical looseness of British quarries, is a bit more approachable!
The Logistics
The long range forecast is so far alright so suggest we go for camping at Tom’s Field (£10) who seem to have availability, but I’ll call to book once there’s a sense of numbers.
Also looking for a pub for dinner on the Saturday, so if you have any local favourites speak up now.
Low tide is at 3, so won’t miss much driving down in the morning!
I possibly have the car (pending my gf’s climbing plans) so that would be space for two passengers from Canada Water, although looks like Tony might have South London covered…
As far as I understand it the tide at Swanage (climbing) is really quite different from that at Swanage (town), the latter being in the bit where the isle of wight and Poole harbour mess round with the tide cycle. I think the tide at the ruckle is more like the tide at kimmeridge or lulworth. Not sure whether you’ve allowed for that already but in case not…
I’m home alone that weekend so I’ll probably head over from Poole.
Keen for either trad (experienced if a bit rusty) or dws, would need a partner - any takers?
I’ll probably camp if the weather is nice for the social aspect.
I’m very keen for this. Aware I have limited experience (all of which has been single pitch sport) but keen to get stuck in. I have a car and can take 3 others (4 if we squeeze) from Kentish Town, probably Friday Eve.
Having been coming to the castle a few times I realise I ought to properly join the club too
So, looking at the spreadsheet we’re a bit short on ab ropes - if you have one and haven’t explicitly mentioned it please do!
You can ab down on a sport rope in a pinch but the rope isn’t going to enjoy it very much, especially at busy crags.
Worth noting that if the weather is decent, and assuming we aren’t the first to arrive at the crag(s), chances are there will be ab ropes in situ already at a lot of the usual places. I’m sure we’ll be fine.
I’m going to book camping tomorrow, so if you’re waiting to sign up (or drop out) please do so now! Drop outs after that point will still need to pay up for camping.
Tom’s Field is £10/night for small tents, £12 for big tents or camper vans, paid on arrival. Bring cash please.
In other news it looks like we’ve got plenty of car space, but if you haven’t got a lift contact a driver to sort yourself out.
Do you have a pub in mind? Just so I can check they’ll have something gluten free