Scottish Winter 2018 3-11 Feb


Done that too! Still great route :slight_smile:

I’ve now got flights and hire car booked. I land in Glasgow at 2200 on
Friday 2nd and need to drop the car back by 1800 on Tuesday 6th.

Keen to climb with anyone through that time (though as everyone else will
be coming up separately I can see myself soloing on Saturday 3rd)



If i come up @Jimbo i will be weekends only so willl want to climb sat 3rd too! Not like @dabarlow to miss daylight climbing either!!


Cool. Bit early to be working things out I suppose, but glad to hear I may
not be on my own!
Unfortunately I can’t bring myself to drive up for a weekend from London so
I’ve had to risk it and get the flights etc… in advance. I am fully aware
this may mean a few days of very wet walking :wink:


I’ll be heading up the Friday, so will be out Saturday, do we have the place from Friday night? Will have the van so not a problem if not, but may be in time to get key, open up and get fire on

Couldn’t get away this weekend, hoping to get away next weekend instead


As far as I’m aware we do not have the place on Friday night.

I’m not picking my car up til about 2230 in Glasgow Friday night so I
thought I might just grab a place in the airport travel lodge and set out
from Glasgow at about 0500 for a pre 0800 start in the southern highlands
or Glen Coe.


Ok, yeah, checking dates looks like we get it on Saturday, which is fine as prob wouldn’t get there in time to get a key.

I will be stopping in my van so not a bother for me, staying a bit further south makes the drive up that bit shorter, if southern highlands/Glen Coe/Cobbler/Beinn Udlaidh ice looks good we could meet there?


Sounds great! That was pretty much my intention. We can stay in touch and
decide closer to the time. who knows, might be lucky and have an ace day
ice climbing on Ben Udlaidh to start the week :slight_smile:


Just realised I’ve entered a fell race on the 4th - doh! So guaranteed you will get good conditions :wink:
Ben udlaigh has had some ice on it this year by look of things - only done one route there years ago …


start south, work north…or wherever is best conditions…way too early for anything other than idle speculation…but would be nice to get some proper ice pitches, that don’t fall down


As I say we could be lucky…


James O’Dwyer


sorry, I got lost in this thread. @johnw1 would it be possible to take a lift from London to Scotland in your car? And how much would you estimate the cost of the journey per person?

And finally, is anyone going up to the cottage before Feb?
I got slightly distracted because of building a new bike after mine was stolen, but now I’ve finished and would be up for testing my winter climbing gear which has never seen outdoors.


I’m looking for passengers. You are welcome to come with me. I’ll come up with a price when I know how many people are coming.


yep i’m happy to come with you @khalidqasrawi, i just thought you were also looking to take a lift from @johnw1 with the skis! As long as it won’t get much more expensive than the night train…


If someone is interested in my gear:

  • 2 * DMM Fly Apline Axes (no finger rests)
  • lanyard for ice axes
  • Grivel G12s - somewhat worn front points ; about 1/2 of modern length.
  • Black Diamond plastic ice screw karabinier

Perfectly suitable leading up to at least grade IV though the axes are a bit heavy and the short teeth front points may be a bit of a problem (@SimonJ borrowed them in Slovakia and said they were fine)

Could you please declare soon. I would like to give it away at the Castle on Monday (preferably) or Mile End on Wednesday (risky) since I will be packing to move house for next weekend and if they stay home they may not re-appear in time. I was keeping the gear for @dadler but he’s declared his love for Petzel Quarks and apparently gone out to buy a pair.


Hi mike - can I nab the ice screw karabiner off you??


On another note, Mike and Khalid have suggested we have a pre-meet on 29th January to discuss arrangements for the trip, and run through a few safety related items. Hopefully will be a good opportunity to discuss:

  • Winter Gear
  • Assessing avalanche hazard (both in planning and en route)
  • Route planning in winter
  • And other general trip planning stuff (like directions)

Would people be around for that?

Mike is looking into booking some space in the Castle. But if we’re unsuccessful there we’ll try and find an alternative location.

I’ve made a doodle:



Check out the Saas-Fee Ice Climbing World Cup live streaming for some winter climbing tips. Fig 4s in abundant use.


Was v impressed on popping to cottage sat pm that winter sport was achieved this weekend with Yann and Tutu bagging a IV and much snowy and icy shenanigans reported :wink:
Possibly prizes for other teams tho :wink:


i was soooo impressed with such full-on winter conditions after all the talk about how we won’t get any winter climbing done this weekend… perfect first experience in spite of my lacking adequate outfit and the three crampon holes in my trousers. Thanks to Jan for leading the hard pitches. looking forward to Scotland! :grinning:
P.S. @dabarlow Liz told me you know of some special tape for the ice tools? where can i get it?


Self-amalgamating tape from B&Q is what I use. Much cheaper than the Petzl or DMM versions.