Scottish Winter 2018 3-11 Feb


#82

Yeah it comes with logs but not an enormous supply - we can get more locally apparently.

Re gear I have 5 screws and rock rack but need to get some blades etc. Not sure what situation is with partners either at the moment.

Dave john and I are planning a trip to the cottage next weekend or the week after if anyone is interested. Depends on weather.

Guy


#83

I have finally acquired most of the personal winter gear (B3 boots, axes, crampons) apart from a winter jacket and gloves which I’m hoping to get soon. However, I don’t have ropes, screws or pitons, just a basic set of nuts, offsets, tricams, slings and a few other trad bits if that’s of any help… Also, do we need to bring a sleeping bag to the Scottish lodge?

Being the least experienced in winter climbing, I’ll most likely be the least desirable partner, so I’m happy to be left on my own if we’re an odd number – I don’t mind a bit of solo scrambling. I could also go on one of the trips to the cottage if I manage to get a Sunday off.


#84

Guy, ok, so we use the central heating and fires for effect!

I can’t do two weeks time as I have my daughter but should be able to get up next weekend, up for climbing if stuff is in nick or just monster round some peaks to get my legs working and shake off this cold.

I don’t know if I’ve climbed with any of you other than Liz but am up for climbing with anyone that can belay and share the ropes on the walk in!

I’ll bring spare rope, axes and poons anyway, I’ll be in the van so have the room, and never know what might happen.

Shall we sort out cooking and stuff a bit nearer, could take turns to save time/money? Or not!

Tutu, ace that you sorted the kit, imagine we’ll have enough between us all depending on what we do, winter climbing is a massively varied. Could be doing anything from short technical ice climbs, long gullies or ridges, short cragging type gully/buttress routes or just glorified winter walking. And that’s if it is actually cold…I’ll be up for doing something with you one day for sure, hope you can make it up the cottage


#85

Yeah I think let’s sort out cooking etc closer to the time. But I think you’re right that it’s a good idea to take turns to cook big meals if everyone’s OK with that. We might have a bit of a surplus from the accommodation fees which I can either put into a meal fund or redistribute in cash.

In terms of partners I’m happy to climb with anyone who can belay too. Sure we can sort it out up there or in the pub beforehand.

Guy


#86

I’m yet to work out if I’m going to be driving up from London (probably in
a hire car) or flying up and hiring. Either way i will have a car in
Scotland and will be out and about from Saturday 3rd until as late as I can
on Tuesday 6th. If driving all the way would love to have some company, so
if anyone is still looking for transport up and can leave West London
around 1630 on the Friday they are welcome to get in with me.

Will those going up for the first weekend be meeting up on the Saturday
somewhere (presumably as yet unspecified)? As I’m only up for limited time
I’m keen to maximise my days out so would like to get something done that
day.

I’ll have a fairly full winter rack with me including half ropes. I also
have spare Flys and crampons should anyone still need any.

Can’t wait for this!


#87

I’m happy to offer cooking services, but… it would be vegetarian. Or a dessert.
I can belay, place protection, build anchors etc., it’s just that I had no experience with winter climbing. I’ll do my best to join on a trip to the cottage before Scotland so I can at least try using my gear.


#88

Ok so my car will take 4 or 3 with skis. Thinking of taking my split board as well.

Chiz, it would be great if I could borrow those flys. It would save me buying or hiring a pair.


#89

Hi John, no worries I’ll bring them along, theyre a bit battered but still good and life left in the picks, I’ll check out the situation with leashes on them -they don’t have pinkie rests, so leashes are useful, I think I converted them to quickrelease leashes, but use them on my quarks (if I bother) I think I have the original DMM leashes (shite) or the quark ones (less shite).

quite tempted to try skiing, never done it, just x country rather than downhill.

I will be bringing my pink plastic bumslider, perfect for quick descents!


#90

I’ve booked time to come up to Cottage this weekend, is cold with some frozen turf and thin ice at mo, so may be something in if it stays cold, be good if it could fatten up, but possibly turfy on Black Ladders or the high ice in Lost Cwm could be good in these thin but cold conditions, assuming you aren’t climbing tech 5…which I’m not. Up into Nameless Cwm and up Cneifon Arete, then back down and see what is in up there?

MWIS freezing level looks okish as far ahead as goes (Thursday), is anyone from the group heading up? May be a gale or two coming in, but can find somewhere sheltered to climb…


#91

Thanks Chiz, that’s very kind. I also have one leash


#92

no worries, rather see them used!


#93

If anyone wants a DMM terrier I have an unused one. The Cllmbers shop price is £22 but I’m offering mine for £15. I can bring it to Mile End on Wednesday.


#94

I’ll take it, thank you @dabarlow. I don’t know if I will be at Mile End tomorrow - will message you separately.


#95

Sorry Chiz, can’t make it this weekend sadly. Will be up there next weekend though - have a good one.


#96

No worries, looks like its gone all melty, again, but hope to have a couple of days on the hill, and stack a load of logs. I think that is a ‘win win’ but I’m not totally sure…

Will go up next weekend if I can


#97

@chizharward are you going to cottage this weekend?

All - i have a set of never used snow chains for a small car if of use to any one? Were expensive ones, but £20 and are yours - though am in the midlands so might be a relay delivery via cottage :slight_smile:

Liz


#98

should be, got to get a new air filter hose/patch it up tomorrow morning and then hopefully head up after work, you mobile again?

Had lot of shit on so taken eye off weather, but will take spikes up in case, you up for something, I won’t have dog


#99

@dizz_lizzie you done Cneifon Arete recently in winter? Head up there? That’s the coldest cwm on Glyderau, or could have a punt at Black Ladders and see if turfy is in? risky…but could go up and over, drop down by lost cwm to check the ice, meant to be blowy mind.

Or go for a swim, Llyn Idwal was surprisingly warm


#100

and what size are the snow chains? I need a set, 15" tyres?


#101

Carried unused spiky things up cneifon arete in winter before! Sent dms on snow chains and weekend … Should be in n wales next weekend i hope!