Saxony trip 1st of May


Hello everybody,
our trip is coming closer and it seems that Manchi has gotten really psyched with monkey fists (or ‘children heads’ as they might be called as well). Be aware that you only need one smaller and one bigger one of these monkey fists (if at all) and that you want them to be realllllllly tight. I try to put inside a piece of wood or an old sock so that they are realllly tight. Otherwise they are transform too much.

I would like to know from @jrtomlins if you are coming. If so, I would reserve you a hut place. Anyone else I missed?

Due to the shortness of the trip, I think we will not spend a night “boofen” but go back to the hut every night.

Bring all your rope pieces of different sizes (arm span length for the thicker ropes -> try to make an eight knot and check if the loop is at least 40 cm, and the loose ends around 20 cm). I will try to organize some extra from my friend as well, which means that we have my set and my friend’s set. I might also be able to organize an ‘old’ Saxon climber for us who can tell us some stories and climb with us :slight_smile:

The UKC forum article that David sent around proposed the use of UFOs. They are a bit more costly than knots (especially if you will only use them once) and they have been allowed by the Saxon Climbing Committe only recently. It is not the original purist type of climbing and this is why I do not suggest getting them. It is like putting bolts into grit stone!

Btw, you can leave your chalk at home.

I will organise breakfast for all of us for the first day at least.

That’s it for now :slight_smile:



This all sounds great, Jan! Very much looking forward to it! Especially the
meeting an “old” Saxon climber bit!


Sorry for not replying sooner. Sadly, I can’t make this, but very jealous!


@liebnitzky: quick update from our end.

Our flight will arrive on the Friday at Dresden airport ~11.15pm. We’ll pick up out the car hire and reckon it’ll take about 1h 15 mins to get to the hut you’ve booked for us… so around 1am.

Heading for this address: Schmilka 32, 01814 Bad Schandau

We will leave on the following Monday around 4/4.30 to catch our flight again from Dresden @6.55pm

Do we need to bring sleeping bags? What does will the hut provide?

Manchi, @naomi_bessey, @Tom_S


Hello Manchi and everyone else,
you will need sleeping bags, but not mattresses. There is also a small kittchen. As I said, I will bring breakfast.
My phone number is: +491634367671

Have a nice Sunday!



Fab, thanks @liebnitsky!

My mobile: +447775 861 559


I know we’re there to climb… but will we be going anywhere near this place?!? Woah…


Regardless… I’m soooo getting psyched for this meet!


Me too Manchi.

@liebnitzky what do we need to bring in terms of climbing gear? Its such a novel place that I have some pretty basic questions.

I’m guessing:
Harness and shoes - yes.
Chalk and any form of meaningful protection - no.
A single rope and some quickdraws between the three of us?
A second Saxonian rope gun?


He Tom,
dont forget slings and rope pieces…
If you have ankle and knee protection for the cracks, that might be helpful as well (decathlon sells them cheaply, but you can also borrow mine :slight_smile:

What do you mean with 3 of us?



Thanks Jan,
I am assuming you are bringing a rope, quickdraws and rope pieces and guess Naomi, Manchi and I need to do the same. To give enough for two pairs. Is that right?

I will try to get some knee pads.



Wheather is looking good:



You’re all crazy.

Have a great trip!


Thanks Max, I’m hoping there’s going to be plenty of threads like these:

And shinier versions of these:


Hi all,
since I am planning to do another Saxony trip next year and I am sure you all want to prepare for this…

A friend of mine developed a tutorial for placing slings:

While the text is in German, it has many pictures with placements… So anyway, wanted to share if anyone ever wonders how to do and practice this.



That is a cool document. What sort of grades are the climbs i.e. how do they relate to UK trad?

Next time we are in Tremadog you’ll take knots instead of David’s new cams?