Anyone else overdue their Wye fix? The official club meet was cancelled yet again last year, let’s see if we can break the streak! (Although I think a splinter meet did make it down at some point in the season 
).
Thanks again @MattGee for the write up below. I’m going to shamelessly wheel it out again because it’s great 
There’s four main crags people go to (and some terrible quarries but we don’t talk about those*). :
Shorn Cliff
Concealed cunningly in the woods above Tintern, Shorn Cliff is mainly steep slabs and technical wall climbs (but there are exceptions, check out Tigers Don’t Cry!), single pitch and about 20-30m. Very good if you operate in the VS-E2 range. All trad, and often considered to have many ‘low in the grade’ routes.
Wintour’s Leap
The big bad multi-pitch cliff of Wintour’s Leap looms above the murky Wye and occasionally (quite large) bits fall off. A pretty serious cliff but there are in fact a number of decent easy multipitch routes, as well as the adjacent Woodcroft Quarry (*yes, I lied) featuring some rather dubious sport routes. Check the UKC notes for anything you want to lead to make sure it’s still there, and that it’s still possible to get down again (some bits have abseil stations, some bits top out and walk round (there’s an Easy Way Down at about Mod grade)).
Wynd Cliff
Fairly close to the parking, Wynd Cliff has a right and a left crag each featuring generally steep trad routes up to about 35m across the grades including the classic VS duo of Cadillac and Questor, but again, the rock cannot always be trusted (I’ve done two different versions of the former…)! There’s also a sunny little sport quarry adjacent. (*yes, I lied again)
Ban Y Gor
Sport climbing! Steep blocky limestone requiring some burliness but rarely over 20m high (“short, steep and bouldery” says the guidebook…!). There’s actually some trad as well…
Accommodation
I’ll enquire with the nearby campsites asap and see if we can get a provisional booking with definite numbers to follow. Beeches Farm Campsite as it is situated just behind Shorn Cliff which would be great. There are plenty of others in the local area.
Dinner
Pub dinner on Saturday?
A Cautionary Note
All the Wye crags justifiably have a bit of a reputation for loose rock, polish, vegetation, abseils from suspicious trees and the like (pretty sure the ab trees at Shorn Cliff were pretty great last time I was there). A lot of Wintour’s Leap routes are protected by pegs which may be present, absent, or in a highly suspicious state. Shorn Cliff routes often feature threads and rock formations called concretions which will require some circumspection when using or abusing them. Popular routes tend to be clean, well protected and relatively trustworthy, but Stanage this ain’t…that said, it’s a beautiful area, can be around 3 hours from London, and some of the climbing is superb and quite adventurous feeling, and feature great views from the top too…
