Finished the course this afternoon and it was really good, Martina was patient and gave plenty of examples of where you would use the techniques and any limitations. Ratio is 1-4 max, we had three on the day so lots of time for questions.
I would definitely recommend it to less experienced climbers along with the Libby Peter book. Great to try these things at the wall and not first time outside. You wouldn’t get the opportunity normally to practice them at height unless outdoors, but most peoples window for that is a bit limited.
Things we covered are below, apologies for the brain dump!
Sports anchor recap either using slings or the rope - useful as I haven’t done sports multi pitch before, just trad
Setting up direct belays with guide mode device including a few ways to lower:
1- A sneaky wiggle up/down of the blocking carabiner for small adjustments
2 - Medium adjustments using a third carabiner for leverage
3- A redirected sling larks footed to the blocking carabiner for big adjustments but with an Italian hitch safety backup
Two people abseiling from the same rope but different ends - coordination was tricky but should be faster with practice
Italian hitch - for lead belay, direct belay for the second, abseiling with one and a quick mock up for trad style half ropes - very useful as it locks the opposite way you expect as it is with the brake hand up not down!
Ascending a rope using prusiks - first time I have tried this and it was quite fun.
Abseiling past a knot or joined rope - how to use prussiks and stay safe
Assisted hoist - dropping a loop of dead rope down and redirecting to the anchor so they can haul themselves in. This seemed really handy for helping a less strong second get past a crux section, definitely will use it in the future.
Unassisted hoist - how to rescue an unconscious second using prussiks. The most complicated and physically tiring section of the course. How to bring them up to you, make safe and then abseil with them attached to you. I hope I never have to do this as the blood clot time window is very small and it takes ages
General problem solving - abseil dos and don’ts, trad specific adaptations and suggestions.