Hi all,
Heading up to the peak this weekend who wants to join?
Vague plan is sat trad at millstone and Sunday bouldering at cratcliffe/rhs.
Paul’s coming on the sat binit on the Sunday.
Weather looks cracking.
I’ve got three spaces in the car depending on bouldering mats taken.
Guy
As Guy says, we’re planning to do some trad on Saturday, maybe Millstone, maybe somewhere I can actually climb because it’s not all hand jams.
I’m off to Scotland after so not around on Sunday so depending on what Guy wants to do there may be an option for trad on Sunday too so if Guy isn’t bouldering.
There are ways around hand jams on Millstone! Admittedly it increases faff and arguably increases tech grade needlessly, and the better routes definitely need at least some “pineapple and mild salsa” jam, but it’s unfair to write off the whole crag as a jam-fest. Covent Garden is particularly good value at VS and no jamming (nor stable placements in the top half…)
Likely I’ll be there with Gabi - I’ve got my eye on some Millstone jamming so may well see you there.
Where are you staying?
I may well be able to join you at Millstone on Saturday, one of my favourite crags. I have a bouldering mat for sale if anyone is interested: Black Diamond, hardly used £ 40 ono.
Hmm Gabi thinks she might not be the best jamming partner…if there are enough of us perhaps we could buddy up if needed. Covent Garden looks ok but I also want to lead The Mall (seconded it last year) plus other VS/easy HVS and would rather not terrify Gabi too much 
Be very careful with CG, it would be very serious to fall off the top half as both the gear and rock is rubbish. You could always try Lawrencefield again! Good non-jamming routes including The Delectable Variation, Great Harry, Three Tree Climb. I wouldn’t say there are any easy VS/HVS at Millstone that don’t involve jamming (maybe Skywalk?). Sadly I can’t make this trip due to visiting friends…dammit.
But I need to jam! [wail]
Bond Street.
I second Matt’s comment on Covent Garden, it is bold, there are placements in the top half but you wouldn’t really hang a hat on them.
Millstone easy VS that doesn’t require jamming - The Mall, OK maybe a jam or two might help (can’t remember!) but it’s not made particularly harder by wilfully not jamming.
There is a very good value VS toward the north end, near the wonderful “Plexity”, called Remembrance Day. No jamming, has a middle crux that gives just the right level of VS delicateness for those lacking in orang-utan reach, and plenty of gear.
And Lambeth Chimney at HS 4b has a bit of a VS feel as you go around the corner.
Thanks Kenny! Remembrance Day looks good.
Richard, i’d be interested in acquiring another mat - do you know which model it is?
There are people on Rockfax logbooks talking about jamming Remembrance Day so it probably has optional jams on it. I very rarely jam “in anger” on lead and when I do, I remember it - and I don’t remember it on that route. I do remember thinking that I was totally lacing it up like a scared baby, and then reviewing my gear and seeing that it was all quite sensibly and reasonably spaced.
The neighbouring Plexity is a superb route (and photogenic, you should station someone to get some pics) but I have only seconded it so I don’t want to comment too much on it. It has one essential jam and very very bold (if technically “safe”) finale possibly not recommended even for a second if she is in any way tremulous.
Hi Richard,
If Paul doesn’t want your mat then I’ll have it.
Cheers Ian
I’ll let you know tomorrow when I get home. I can strongly recommend crack gloves for jamming.
I tried to buy some at the Castle shop yesterday, Richard, but they didn’t have any…guess I’ll just have to be in pain.
Tape is better than nothing. I use Steph Davis’ method. Qualiteeeee
Hi Holly - I’ll drive up Sat am but I don’t know where I’m staying on Sat night! Potentially the thorpe farm bunkhouse potentially camping if there’s a cheap option. Where are you guys staying?
We’re staying at a friend’s in Hathersage. Camping & cold weather does not make Holly happy.
I found tape made a massive difference in allowing me to focus on the best jams rather than the ones which were most comfortable. Amazing how much difference a layer of tape makes.
Jamming gloves in some respects are just more practical versions of reusable tape gloves.