No excuse not to go to Pembroke


#41

Hi Omar, yes it was, well recognised; it was called To Good To Murray.

Ian, no that was Eaves Dripper, on the other side of Blue Sky, which the Rockfax & Climbers Club guides show on different lines.


#42

WrongFax strikes again


#43

Depends what you like I think! Tactician is horribly polished, done it a few times but not one I really like, has a really awkward bit half way up, super shiny, frontline I did not like (it was wet) but yup lots of rests IN it, whereas army dreamers I do nearly every Pembroke trip :wink: Hercules as I well I really like and have done often but is tricky in the middle. So many good routes! Excited for drier weather already :slight_smile:


#44

Joyous Gard at Mother Carey’s was quite a good HVS and Deep Space
is another one there, which I have yet to do…


#45

Tactician feels HVS to me for sure. I think the “really awkward bit” is a hand jam or two so the questioner wouldn’t be phased. Like lots at St Govans, the bottom bit has all those rounded shiny jugs which feel polished (I think it’s natural) especially when covered in salty sea spray so I think best tackled after 11am on a calm day.

Frontline: I find awkward and the start is great if you like a risky squirm.
I thought Joyous Gard was pretty steep and strong: I fell off first go.
Same as Liz, Army Dreamers is my goto warm up climb. I love it.
Ditto with Hercules, I’ve done that lots and find I’m grinning, all the way.

The main takeaway from the thread is that whilst there are a few good VS climbs, Pembroke’s riches really start at HVS. It does feel like it’s graded soft, so if all your VS climbing is on grit, then many of these HVS routes will be within your grasp: you just need to be climbing fit and ready for 30m of climbing. Try seconding a few first, get used to relying more on wires than cams then go for it.


#46

Goody, thanks. I’ve got a fair few VSs from Gogarth/Holyhead too, I’m guessing Gogarth is most relatable. Itching to get out to Pembroke now.


#47

In my short and not particularly worthwhile experience, St Govan’s was a greasy scare pit from hell.

I liked the rest of Pembroke though.


#48

Conditions were probably a factor in that. I’ve learned not to climb at St Govan’s in the morning as it needs time for condensation to dry off


#49

It’s usually just a case of waiting for the sun to burn off the sea spray; but that applies to most of the tidal sea cliff areas.


#50

I think St Govan’s is particularly bad because the waves crash there in a way that creates more sea spray than many of the other areas e.g. Stennis Head. Also, it has that 2m band of black rock near the ground that’s a bit tricky for gear, steep, shiny and knobbly but fortunately, juggy. Easy climbing in the sun but can feel insecure when damp. In the attached picture, Martin is about to abseil past it!


#51

Is Martin dressed as a tiger in the photo? Didn’t something similar happen on a skiing trip?


#52


Indeed; here is Martin displaying his feline attire, whilst Khalid ascends Army Dreamers; but then the next day, Jan has adorned it at the foot of the White Tower. What went on in between, who knows?!


#53

Love this picture so much!


#54

I wish it wasn’t December and there was climbing instead of rain


#55

Perhaps they both had their own tiger suits?


#56

No, there was only one, Jan just wanted his turn.


#57

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/12/pen_y_holt_-_range_west_pembroke-71809 - classic range west - watch the bit after the credits too!