No excuse not to go to Pembroke


Ha blimey!


@dizz_lizzie might have an opinion about its grade…


Holly, those routes named by Khalid are not in Range West therefore you won’t need to attend a Range West briefing for them.
I am slightly puzzled by all the focus on Range West here :smiley:


@Kenny_Straggler check post #10 earlier promoting the Range West Briefing meet 19-22 April. I’ve never climbed in Range West. My thinking is that there’s no point going to the briefing on my own because I’m not into soloing. So, I’m taking the whole club (at least the lead climbers, the boulderers might go somewhere else). Does that sound nebulous?


Thanks Khalid, sorry I somehow overlooked your post (#10)


No worries @Kenny_Straggler. It gave me a second opportunity to promote the Range West Briefing Meet, which is over the Easter weekend next year, 19-22 April, btw.


Range West does give a sense of adventure and remoteness as well as a quieter experience, with fewer climbers, so I am looking forward to attending the Easter meet; the photo above is of Western Walls, where I climbed at Easter 2017.


Holly, i see that adjacent to Blue Sky, there is a second three star VS called Landvetter, which I also note I appear not to have climbed. These are both 54m routes, the consequence of which, they are only exposed within a short window at low tide and I guess that might mean that there is not enough time to climb them both on the same day.


Not sure I’ll be on the April meet but keen to go in May/June.


@HollyP you could definitely lead Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) no problem. A really good adventure.

I’m really keen to go to Mother Carey’s Kitchen on the next trip. @guyarnold and myself will (if all goes to plan) be fresh back from Kalymnos and therefore pulling super hard.


Western Walls


Hmm might have to do ww III blues again now I’ve learnt to jam - I know plenty of people who climb much harder than me and didn’t get that one first go!


If breaking into the grade , straight up, well protected HVS is better. Hercules, Frontline, Bludgeon, Tactician [even if wrongly given E1 5a]. The real beauty of Prembroke is that it’s quite easy to try harder stuff without getting too scared, and it’s a lot less stiffly graded than the lakes, Cornwall or the Peak.


Tactician is well harder than Riders!


All my 3 HVSs thus far have been on grit. One of which - spicily - had a mere 3 pieces of gear.
Well protected ones at Pembroke sound good to me!


Army dreamers is a good one. Those are all hard Max! I thought Tactician fair E1 … you are just too good at climbing :wink: , plus if you get riders on the storm wrong you will get in the sea … lots of good well protected hvs in n Wales too … i do Merlin direct nearly every year as just so good, striptease at VS 5a, shadrach is probs hvs really, scratch arete and the fang and meshach are all good once done a few … brant direct, wind (probs E1) … lots to do :slight_smile:


If I’m not mistaken Peter, this was where we did my first trad lead! :slight_smile:


Peter, was it not Landvetter that you got lost on trying to work out which groove you were supposed to finish up. IIRC you were climbing with Phoebe


I have to agree with Max, I don’t think Tactician is E1. Well not if you’re comfortable on your feet though that’s true with most climbs. Similarly I don’t think Frontline is too bad, you can get some no handed rests on it


Frontline is a softie. Army dreamers is a bit unsettling, steep, then polished. There are easier at the grade.

I’ve done blue sky and landvetter. I was never completely sure I was on the right line at any time on the top pitches. So you have my sympathies Peter :wink: