Chamonix Sports Climbing Mini-Meet

Martin and I are going to head to Chamonix for the 30th May Bank Holiday, grabbing 3 days of sports climbing. There should be 3 more spaces in the apartment (free accommodation) if anyone wants to join us?


Hi Will,

Chamonix isn’t the first place I think of for sport climbing.
Where were you thinking of climbing?

Cheers Ian

Hi Ian, the plan was to utilise the valley crags predominantly, with possibly doing rock routes in the Aiguille Rouge depending on how much snow is still there. Was personally favouring single/ multi-pitch face climbing though, rather than long alpine rock ridges.


Gietroz isn’t bad. I’ve seen good photos of harder stuff at bionassay further down the valley too. Honestly thought, as with the Dolomites, there are just an awful lot of better places out there for pure sport climbing.

But the view is so good at the top (and indeed bottom) of the routes…

Just on the volume of sports climbing there, leaving aside the high mountain alpine routes, the Chamonix Valley guidebook is reasonably substantial, whilst the Aiguille Rouge one is 2 volumes. There are undoubtedly better dedicated sports-only venues in Europe, but think we should find enough climbing for a long weekend.


Hi Will, do yo have a Chamonix sport climbing guide? I have one you can borrow if you like. There are some pretty cool wee crags, like the Cheserys and in Vallorcine.

The popular stuff near Cham itself is a bit of dross, used mainly by guides for lazy lessons.

Yes, I agree, there’s nothing I’ve done near Chamonix town itself that’s been up to much - you could do better in so many places in the UK. I’m happy to loan the barberine/gietroz guide if that’s of any use.

It’s worth asking around on ukc etc (or i can ask friends there for you?) but I would assume most of the aiguilles rouges would need crampons/etc for a lot of approaches for some time yet.

I think the nice thing about sport climbing in Chamonix, besides the general
ambiance, is that there is plenty to do in the lower grades as well as the
harder stuff. I’d be interested in coming if there were others coming who climb
at my grades.



Some interesting points there Andy (it is Andy isn’t it- not sure we’ve met?).

Personally, I thought Vallorcine and les Gaillands were both good venues, suiting my preference for easier routes, albeit with les Gaillands being a bit polished. Keen to check out Barberine and Chatelard (both in my guidebook cheers). I also loved the Aiguille Rouge climbing around the Flegere lift, but if it’s still too snow-bound (remember it’s end-May), then Montenvers or les Cheserys give further options.

I’m also very biased- I love being around the jagged, spectacular Chamonix skyline, and having a low-stress, beers-in-the-evening 3-dayer sounds great!


It is, yes. I don’t know whether we have either.

I remember doing trips to Chamonix in early July when there were still substantial snow fields to cross to access the sorts of aiguilles rouges routes that first timers seem to go for (index, gliere, all that sort of stuff). I’ve never climbed at the stuff round the brevant etc but end may is still in that transition period before the “summer season” has really kicked off. I’m sure the info is out there to confirm the snow conditions a bit nearer the time.

So…are we coordinating flights. When is a good time to book?

Guys, I’m thinking in joining this trip. What flights have you booked? Cheers

Hi Raul,

Sounds cool!

EasyJet EZY2061 from London Luton to Geneva, 17:50, Friday 3rd June (note we switched weekends to one week after the Bank Holiday);
EasyJet EZY2062 from Geneva to London Luton, 21:05, Monday 6th June.

Speak soon,

07977 477 813.

I could only come for the weekend tho, would not stay Monday. How far is the airport from the crag?

Hi Raul,

Chamonix is about an hour and a quarter from Geneva airport by transfer- you might want to check out EasyBus, AlpyBus, and Cham Express.

You might want to tie up with Tom (Mortimer)- I think Tom’s looking to head back to London from Chamonix on the Sunday .


Im flying out from Heathrow with BA on Friday at 20:05 getting in at
22:40, returning Monday 07:30 with BA getting into Heathrow at 08:15. I’ve
booked easy bus to get from Chamonix to Geneva on the Monday morning, are
you guys planning on renting a car from Geneva airport and driving down to

Good stuff Tom. Just on the transport, the transfer booking can be done much closer to leaving (e.g. I’ve booked the day before on a previous trip).

Speak soon,


Tom, what seat are you in on the outbound flight? Thought we might chat on the way there. Cheers

I’ve had a a hunt around but I can’t seem to find the specific seat number.
I’ll have another look late and let you know if I have any luck!