The popular areas right on the sea at Swanage aren’t too badly affected by tides. Most of the boulder field at Boulder Ruckle is above high tide, although if you ab into Aventura area and then walk east to access Thunderball or Jo, you will need to boulder hop along the base until you reach a short tidal section where you’ll have to dodge the waves. Guillemot Ledge is also mostly non-tidal although you can’t easily walk around the base in rough seas. I’d suggest you still need to wait until low tide to access Cormorant Ledge otherwise it will make abbing onto the starting block rather exciting.
For Guillemot Ledge just be aware the ab block in the lower quarried area now wobbles as the turf under the back end is being sawn through by years of slings being put over it i.e. the turf is being chopped out from under the block. Tie off your sling so it won’t flop to the bottom of the block and back up the block (good nuts in the back wall), but this isn’t ideal. There’s a perfectly good stake if you carry on down the gully after crossing the stile when you approach the crag.
I remember a proposal many years ago to put stakes in at the top of routes for abseiling in. The council refused because they thought it would make climbing there more dangerous. Presumably because more people might want to there.
I agree that the tides aren’t massively important for a lot of the popular areas, but it’s also worth noting that somewhere like kimmeridge or lulworth are a better proxy for the tide time at the crag than Swanage town itself - everything in the general area gets weird double high or double low patterns, but the flipping point between them is effectively the headland between the town and the crags.
Particularly since I’m not travelling down with people and don’t know that many people very well, im keen to make a plan/sort a partner in advance. I’m not really interested in the quarry sport climbing. I could do guillemot or subliminal but have done a lot more there so would be more keen to head elsewhere, probably most keen on the ruckle. I’ve put some details on the sheet in terms of ukc logbook and stuff like that. Drop me a line…
I can be there. I was going to join Castle social at 7 but 5pm works better for me actually. I’m not officially a NLMC member yet but confident belaying. Only 6a/ 6b grade so far…
If you are interested how will i recognise you? Or text me 074 2829 4788
Hey @BenWhetton, did the camping confirm they had enough spaces?
Probably not relevant to the trip at this point but I wonder whether we could hire some hut in Swanage from another club. I remember someone mentioning we have an agreement to do so but I’ve never seen a written confirmation of that
Apologies for being absent from the castle recently, have had a bit of a dodgy finger. Looking forward to the weekend - the weather is looking stunning!!
If anyone is looking for a partner I’m still in the market, quite keen to get some seconding mileage in to get back in the grove if things if anyone is keen to get a lot of leading done
I’ve just added myself as a driver. Have space for 2 people, 3 if you don’t mind being (very) cosy…
Feel free to add yourselves.
@Hugh_Hudson I’d be happy to do the lion’s share of leading if you need a partner… Probably VSish or HVS - I’ve mostly climbed in the Alps so not much experience with British trad grades.
